Journal
Technical issue on my Sailrite LS-1: The machine is sewing well and I've got tensions and such figured out pretty well, but every rotation, the machine has a consistent spot where it hits resistance, makes noise, and pops/binds in the walking foot. It's right after the needle gets to the very top of its stroke and is on its way down.
The middle part of the walking foot at this point should begin to lift away from the fabric. Instead, it often stays low and close to the fabric until at a certain point in the rotation, when the needle has moved down about 2mm. At this point, the middle part of the walking foot pops up instantly, and you can see the walking foot mechanism in the machine also instantly shifts at the same time in several areas. It's like something is binding.
Once the middle presser foot pops up, rotation resistance is back to normal and all is good until it hits that spot in the next stitch. Once the resistance starts at the very top of the needle stroke, you can relieve the resistance by applying just enough pressure on the presser foot lift lever to allow the whole mechanism to unbind. Once the lever moves to the spot where it hits resistance (there's lots of free play in it by design,) it only has to move a fraction of a mm and then everything in the assembly pops into its proper place and works fine with normal rotational resistance.
There's also resistance in the rotation with the presser foot up (and needle, bobbin case, and bobbin hook out.) It's in that same area where the needle bar goes from very top point to down about 2mm. You can hear the machine bind and pop every rotation with the presser foot up.
The machine is cleaned, oiled, and the timing is perfect (I watched all 3 Sailrite videos on timing this machine.) It also stitches well. But I know the resistance and binding cannot be good for the machine, and the resistance is quite annoying when you want to operate the foot pedal at low speed and it works at low speed until it hits that spot in the rotation with resistance, then stops and requires more foot pressure to overcome the resistance and move again, moving faster once its free of the resistance and making it hard to stitch slow.
The middle part of the walking foot at this point should begin to lift away from the fabric. Instead, it often stays low and close to the fabric until at a certain point in the rotation, when the needle has moved down about 2mm. At this point, the middle part of the walking foot pops up instantly, and you can see the walking foot mechanism in the machine also instantly shifts at the same time in several areas. It's like something is binding.
Once the middle presser foot pops up, rotation resistance is back to normal and all is good until it hits that spot in the next stitch. Once the resistance starts at the very top of the needle stroke, you can relieve the resistance by applying just enough pressure on the presser foot lift lever to allow the whole mechanism to unbind. Once the lever moves to the spot where it hits resistance (there's lots of free play in it by design,) it only has to move a fraction of a mm and then everything in the assembly pops into its proper place and works fine with normal rotational resistance.
There's also resistance in the rotation with the presser foot up (and needle, bobbin case, and bobbin hook out.) It's in that same area where the needle bar goes from very top point to down about 2mm. You can hear the machine bind and pop every rotation with the presser foot up.
The machine is cleaned, oiled, and the timing is perfect (I watched all 3 Sailrite videos on timing this machine.) It also stitches well. But I know the resistance and binding cannot be good for the machine, and the resistance is quite annoying when you want to operate the foot pedal at low speed and it works at low speed until it hits that spot in the rotation with resistance, then stops and requires more foot pressure to overcome the resistance and move again, moving faster once its free of the resistance and making it hard to stitch slow.
Just finished up another rectangle "stick of butter" bag, and this one turned out ok. The spacing on the "BUTTER" text, "ALLEYPUP" text, and tablespoon lines is better, but the box angles aren't as good as the first one. Using blue for the text looks better too, found royal blue Rayon embroidery thread at ReCreative for $0.75.
Fabric is some sort of nylon outside, with lighter bright orange nylon on the inside.
Fabric is some sort of nylon outside, with lighter bright orange nylon on the inside.
Another 3D zipper bag / sling pouch. Black X-Pac with spacer mesh rear pocket and hi-viz inside pocket.
Turned out ok, but the exterior pocket didn't have enough slack in it, so the main body of the bag is pushed in by the bulky spacer mesh pocket, especially at the top, when it's turned inside out after sewing.
#myog
Turned out ok, but the exterior pocket didn't have enough slack in it, so the main body of the bag is pushed in by the bulky spacer mesh pocket, especially at the top, when it's turned inside out after sewing.
#myog
Made a quick tool holder bag today. Has a magnetic closure and holds my scissors perfectly with room for a couple more tools. Made of Challenge ECOPAK.
Still more work to go. Needs a strap near the top so a strap can be ran from the bottom loop to secure it better. Maybe snaps or something on the sides as well to close the bag better.
Still more work to go. Needs a strap near the top so a strap can be ran from the bottom loop to secure it better. Maybe snaps or something on the sides as well to close the bag better.
Got a red Carhartt JR100 active jacket yesterday to match the new backpack. It was missing its zipper pull, so replaced the whole slider with an intact Carhartt/YKK one from a Carhartt J131 jacket and then replaced the slider on the J131 with a plain YKK non-Carhartt-branded slider.
#repair #gearrepair #carhartt #red #zipper
#repair #gearrepair #carhartt #red #zipper
Hand sewed a line of pink stitching onto my saddle stool to easily find the center.
Just finished up repairs on the right hand pocket of a Carhartt J131 BRN Mens L jacket.
Three patches inside the jacket, two patches inside the pocket, one patch over the edge near the zipper. Zipper and pocket had to be opened up.
Thrasher patch on the chest.
I feel like I didn't overthink it, so the project went fairly quick and pretty well.
Three patches inside the jacket, two patches inside the pocket, one patch over the edge near the zipper. Zipper and pocket had to be opened up.
Thrasher patch on the chest.
I feel like I didn't overthink it, so the project went fairly quick and pretty well.
Just finished up the bottom panel to cover the rough edge around the waist on my from-scratch denim hooded jacket. Turned out well, pretty happy with it, I think it will handle the washing machine now.
Still one thick area to stitch through on the new industrial machine, and a few areas to topstitch more (zipper) or overcast more (torn frayed areas)
Still one thick area to stitch through on the new industrial machine, and a few areas to topstitch more (zipper) or overcast more (torn frayed areas)
Bought some Hyper D 300 fabric from ReCreative yesterday, and made a couple lightweight zipper pouches with it. Sews pretty well, and I like the feeling of the outside, but not the inside. So the second one is double sided, both right sides out. First one ended up inside out by mistake, but they both look alright.
Fabric is some sort of prototype or sample I believe - it has "HD300" in black text in various spots throughout the fabric piece I bought.
Fabric is some sort of prototype or sample I believe - it has "HD300" in black text in various spots throughout the fabric piece I bought.
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